How to judge a quality shirt
The quality of a bespoke shirt is primarily reflected by the level of detail in design and finish. The exclusive finish of our shirts reflects our unique method of production that combines technology and innovation with fidelity to the traditional artisanal tradition of production.
By considering even the smallest but precious details in a shirt that is 'Made in Italy' you can appreciate the elegance and exclusiveness that make it a real work of art.
1. 'English-style' sleeve and side seams
Despite the name, it's an Italian development; the operation is carried out in two separate phases with two distinct, single-stitch seams, not in a single phase by a machine with two needles, as is usually the case in industrial productions with the aim of accelerating labor time, and thereby lowering costs – however loosing the ability to produce a strong, soft seam that is comfortable for the skin.
2. "Attached, reinforced" collars and cuffs
This operation, too, is carried out in two distinct phases with two separate seams.
Collars and cuffs are usually produced with a single seam, which doesn't permit perfect ironing and often results in a wrinkled appearance, whereas it is important that are as smooth as possible so that the shirt will always appear immaculate.
3. "Trocas Australia" buttons diameter 16 mm, thickness 3.5 mm
The buttons are of genuine, natural, Australian mother-of-pearl, the finest quality currently available on the market.
The thickness of 3.5 mm is obtained by utilizing only the central and thickest portion of the shell. This raised button has been chosen to give the shirt greater value, as well as being easier to handle.
It furthermore prevents the button 'snagging' on the thread and subsequently hanging loose. For the same reason, the collar, where the fabric is heavier due to the internal lining, is provided with a button that is 2.5 mm thick.
4. Seamwork with 8 stitches per cm
For every cm of seam there are 8 sewing machine needle "strokes" (the higher the number of stitches per cm, the greater the resistance of the seam and, therefore, the quality of the finished product).
5. Removable collar stays
The collars are provided with two small openings in which the stays are to be inserted in order to maintain the shape of the collar points. The stays are removable to avoid damage at high temperatures during washing.
6. Centered pattern of fabric
A quality shirt can also be recognized by the way the pattern is aligned along the seamwork (see: pocket, sides, points of collars and cuffs, etc.).
7. Button hole rounded at the top
A small but essential detail.
A shirt of distinction comes with hand-embroidered initials positioned slightly under the pocket area, thus rendering it exclusive and personal; it attests to the taste and style of the person who wears it...